Wednesday, 24 July 2013

Our Dwindling Food Variety


As we've come to depend on a handful of commercial varieties of fruits and vegetables, thousands of heirloom varieties have disappeared. It's hard to know exactly how many have been lost over the past century, but a study conducted in 1983 by the Rural Advancement Foundation International gave a clue to the scope of the problem. It compared USDA listings of seed varieties sold by commercial U.S. seed houses in 1903 with those in the U.S. National Seed Storage Laboratory in 1983. The survey, which included 66 crops, found that about 93 percent of the varieties had gone extinct. More up-to-date studies are needed.

 
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National Geographic Magazine - NGM.com

Monday, 15 July 2013

Taste Evolution: Seeds, genes and feeding the future

 

Its incredible to think that the food crops that we eat are the product of thousands of years of human selection, which started even before we started farming!
 
By collecting wild plants and spreading the seeds, humans, like their animal counterparts, started the process of selection. Choosing the juiciest, biggest fruits and scattering seeds in swiddens near their settlements, humans selected certain genes, and encouraged them to proliferate.

In starting to collect seeds and cultivate wild plants; farming, humans made further selections, based on various factors such as taste, disease resistance, yield.
 
Farmers shared seeds and traded. With increased movement of people, seeds and crops were exchanged over longer distances. Genetic information travelled, and overtime the crops adapted to their new climates, soils, pests, diseases and consumers tastes.
 
Simple evolution.  All important processes to enable the species to survive. We have been genetically manipulating plants for thousands of years!
Speeding up the process
This process has speeded up over the last 100 years or so. With improved selection processes and plant breeding, hybridization techniques and most recently genetic modification. All with the same intention – to adjust plant genetic material to improve certain elements such as disease resistance, yield, sugar content, stalk length. Whatever the highest bidder requires.
 
Modern farming systems favor efficiency and monocultures. Monocultures enable economies of scale. Predicability, They enable the whole field to be treated with the same chemicals and produce standardized products. All very desirable qualities.
 
But they mean fields full of genetically identical plants.
At the same time, the seed exchange has globalized. The number of different varieties available has decreased. Hybridized seeds often contain ‘terminator genes’, therefore seeds cannot be saved year to year and varieties cannot evolve to local conditions – such as soil types, climatic conditions or aspect.
Globally we are dependent on an increasingly narrow spectrum of genetic material. Most of the worlds population depend on 3 crops; rice, wheat and maize for around 60% of their calorific intake. With improved varieties the genetic diversity of these crops is reducing rapidly.
 
Plant genetic diversity is important for a number of reasons. We just need to look to nature to see that with diversity comes greater resilience to shocks such as drought and disease.
 
But most importantly genetic diversity is also a resource for future generations, Losing genetic information is like losing the key to our future solutions. Once lost we can’t get it back.  
Losing genetic diversity makes us very vulnerable.
 
What is being done to protect agricultural biodiversity?
Lets take a case study of Nepal.
 
Due to its impressive topography Nepal boasts a huge range of agro-ecological zones, and consequently varieties, landraces and cultivars of wild and domesticated plants adapted to local niches. Evolved over generations through their relationship with man.
 
 
However, increasingly farmers are encouraged to use imported seed and there is considerable evidence that Nepal is rapidly losing its plant genetic resource.
 
Working with an agricultural cooperative in the Kaski region earlier this year I was inspired by farmers that were very conscious of preserving their seeds.
 
I met Tara Devi Gurung. Here she is below showing my colleague Tanka a selection of here carefully saved seeds. They are local varieties of spinach, sponge gourd (a traditional crop to the Himalaya).

 
 

Tara explained how she preferred local seeds over imported varieties for a number of reasons. Firstly, she had been stung by hybrid seeds which didn’t grow from her saved seeds. She had to buy them again!
 
Secondly the taste. She cooked us marpha, a local variety of spinach with a big leaf and deliciously sweet flavor. She explained how the area was famous for it and in the markets of Pokhara the local marpha demanded higher prices for its supreme flavor (and perhaps a bit of nostalgia for the food from the village..!)
 
Thirdly, Tara had found that the imported seeds (promoted by an NGO ahem!) in some cases had a higher yield but in others they did not perform as well as locally bred varieties – presumably as they were not adapted to local conditions, pests and diseases.
Like many farmers in the Himalaya. Tara recognized the importance of seed saving and preserving local varieties.
 
Luckily she has a few friends on her side.
 
We visited the Lumle Agricultural Research Centre where we met a friendly scientist working with farrmers in their fields to develop local improved varieties and hybrids, combining desirable qualities of imported seed with those of local. One successful example was the Bhaktapur local, an improved cultivar of a local cucumber which had a longer growing season and delivered higher yields than both local and imported varieties. In Taras village Bhadaure, many farmer are benefiting from the market advantage of off-season production of Bhaktapur local.
 
 
Such ‘Participatory plant breeding’ enables scientists to engage farmers in the process, ensuring that varietal selection is based on the qualities that they seek and that are appropriate to their fields and markets.
 
Tanka and I also visited LiBird, a fantastic organization (supported by Bioversity) who work with local communities on a range of projects to protect biodiversity. Their work includes community seed banks; where communities collect, document and store local varieties, farmer to farmer research and a local radio show to raise awareness of the importance of preserving agricultural diversity and local varieties, sharing experiences. They also work with farmers to market and add value to local varieties and traditional crops such as finger millet.
So after thousands of years of cultivating, domesticating and co-evolving with our food plants, we are at a critical point. We are losing our botanic heritage.

When I look at the fields full of genetically identical wheat plants in our fields I wonder were we begin, But these inspiring efforts in the Himalayas bring me hope that we can preserve plant genetic information for future generations, improve food security and resilience and produce tastier, healthier, more lucrative crops!